Travels in Taiwan

Xinyi - Inside Out

2011-04-14T20:13:00.000-07:00

Written for "Verve" - the Eva Air magazine

With its department stores and elegant restaurants, street performers and inviting avenues, the Xinyi district is the perfect place to spend your downtime in Taipei. And as the refined and oftentimes luxurious interiors contrast so perfectly with the vibrant, exciting atmosphere to be found outside, there are really two Xinyis for you to explore and enjoy.

Inside

Taipei 101

Standing an incredible 508 meters high, 101 is the world’s second tallest building, and it dominates the Taipei skyline. It’s not just the magnitude of the structure that captures the eye, but also the design features that make is so reminiscent of the bamboo that grows throughout Southeast Asia.

As with most of the world’s tall buildings, one of the chief attractions here is an observatory with excellent views of the surrounding city. There is a large, indoor area with souvenir shops, and if you’re lucky and the weather conditions are right, you’ll be allowed up onto a higher, outdoor observation deck.

The 101 complex also has an adjoining shopping center, where the vast majority of the stores are distinctly upmarket. You’ll find internationally recognized designer labels and a range of luxury items. There’s also a great bookshop with thousands of English titles, some fantastic restaurants, and one of the best supermarkets on the island – Jason’s. It stocks a wide range of imported produce, so if you’re in need of some home comforts, this is the place to come.

Taipei World Trade Center

Right next door to 101 is the main building of the Taipei World Trade Center, which hosts a number of internationally important exhibitions and trade fairs. Although it’s primarily a center for business, many of the events held there appeal to members of the public just as much as to industry insiders. The biggest exhibition on this month is Computex – Asia’s largest computer show. From May 31 to June 4, the biggest IT companies from around the world will join local manufacturers like Asus and Acer to display their latest products and innovations. For a complete list of exhibitions taking place during your stay, visit the TWTC website at www.twtc.com.tw

Eslite Bookstore

It doesn’t matter if you’re not an avid reader, the Eslite Bookstore has so many non-book-related stores offering such a wide variety of products that you’re bound to find something here to interest you. It’s definitely the place to go if you’re buying gifts for people back home, as there are dozens of quirky or high-end outlets offering everything from luxury writing tools to herbal teas to clever novelty items.

That said, it’s not called a bookstore for nothing, and if you are looking for reading material, Eslite should be your first stop. In addition to a wide selection of English-language books, there are also sections for French, Japanese, and simplified Chinese literature. There’s an entire floor of children’s books, and, if you’re after something a little lighter, there’s even a huge range of magazines from around the world.

Wining and Dining

Shinyeh 101

When in Taiwan, eat as the Taiwanese eat, and there’s no better place to sample the local cuisine than Sinyeh 101. Not only is the food sumptuous, but as the restaurant’s located on the 85^th floor of Taipei 101, you’ll also be treated to some spectacular views.

Address: Floor 85, Taipei 101, 7 Xinyi Road, Section 5 Tel: 02 8101 0185

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

No introduction to Taipei dining would be complete without mentioning the restaurant opened by “Chef of the Century,” Joël Robuchon. The food here, which is largely modern French cuisine, is simply exquisite, but what else would you expect from a man whose restaurants have picked up 26 Michelin stars? To avoid disappointment, make sure you book well in advance.

Address: Floor 5, Bella Vita, 28 Songren Road Tel: 02 8729 2628

Brown sugar

Brown Sugar is one of Taipei’s best nightspots. As a restaurant, it offers an international menu and an excellent choice of wines, and as a venue for live jazz music, it hosts sets from the cream of the local talent and musicians from around the world.

Address: 101 Songren Road Tel: 02 8780 1110

Eslite Beer Cellar

This is a fun and lively place with an overtly German theme. The waiters and waitresses dress up in traditional German costume, and the furnishings are simple and rustic. As well as the obligatory sausage and sauerkraut, the menu is packed with fairly unhealthy cheesy, meaty snacks. The real draw, though, is the locally brewed, German-style beer.

Address: Floor B1, Eslite Bookstore, 11 Songgao Road Tel: 02 8789 5911

Outside

Shin Kong Mitsukoshi Department Store

The Xinyi district is home to some of the finest city scenery you’ll find anywhere in the world. There’s a genuinely eclectic mix of architecture that looks great in the daytime and simply stunning at night when the buildings are tastefully lit up with LED and neon light displays. The best places to take all this in are the broad walkways around Shin Kong Mitsukoshi Department Store’s four buildings.

These spaces are also home to an array of street performers and craft stalls. There’s a fantastic range and variety of people plying their trade here, and on any given evening, you could see singers, portrait painters, gymnasts, and vendors selling all manner of interesting keepsakes.

The Vieshow Cinema Complex

The space outside the 18-screen Vieshow movie theater attracts a much younger crowd than is typically drawn to the walkways around the Shin Kong Mitsukoshi Department Store. While those areas have a relaxed charm and toned-down atmosphere, this one all about youthful energy. The street performers are louder and a little cockier, and with their clever and well-rehearsed dance routines, they generally attract a large audience. The crowds might be a problem in other parts of Taipei, where some people seem more than happy to push, jostle, and elbow you out of their way. In Xinyi, though, you’ll rarely see – or feel – this kind of thing.

Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall

With its yellow-tiled, sloping roof and meticulously ordered grounds, the Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall looks more like something you’d expect to find in an Eastern Bloc country than on the outskirts of the Xinyi district. But then, it was built in honor of republican China’s founding father, and work finished on the site around 40 years ago – 40 years in which Taiwan has developed almost beyond recognition.

History lovers should get a kick out of the exhibitions inside the building, and the hourly, changing-of-the-guard ceremony is well worth watching. More than all that, though, and the reason why the locals come back here again and again, is the fact that it’s just a lovely place to spend a few relaxing hours. There’s a real family feeling to the venue, and as it attracts the full cross-section of Taiwanese society, it’s a great place to people-watch and learn a little more about the culture in this country.

Stretch your Legs on Elephant Mountain

No matter where you go in Taiwan, you’ll never be too far away from lush, green mountains or hills, and Xinyi is no exception. Just a short walk or an even shorter taxi ride from the commercial center is Elephant Mountain. Despite the name, it’s not really a mountain as it’s only about 180 meters tall. That’s still high enough, though, to give you an incredible vantage point over the city.

Although the short, paved trail is fairly easy to walk, even for those who don’t do a lot of exercise, it is steep along the majority of its course, so climbing Elephant Mountain will be too strenuous for some. If you do make it to the top, you’ll find the views, especially at sunset, are well worth the effort.

Elephant Mountain is just one part of Taipei’s Four Beasts Mountain, the others being Tiger, Lion, and Leopard Mountains. It never gets very high – just 350 meters at the highest point – and there are paths leading from Elephant Mountain to the other peaks. Unfortunately, the signs and maps you’ll find en route are mostly in Chinese, but you can always ask one of the locals if you’re unsure of which direction to head off in. You will find bathrooms and resting points along the way, so afternoon- or day-long hikes are possible; just make sure you take enough food and drinking water with you.

The walking trails will also give you a good chance to see a selection of the local wildlife. It’s incredible how many different species can be found so close to the city, and birds, colorful spiders, frogs, bats, lizards, and even snakes can be seen on the slopes of Elephant Mountain. And as fireflies are still active in June, don’t be surprised to see a few glowing orbs flying around if you’re there after dark.

To get to Elephant Mountain, turn onto Songren Road from Xinyi Road, and then take the first left onto Songqin Road. Follow the road around a corner and past a small park, and when you reach the end of the road, turn left up a small hill, and you should find the trail head. It’s a lot easier than it sounds, and there are signposts to help you find your way.

The rapidly developing Xinyi district offers visitors to Taiwan a glimpse of the country’s future. It’s clean, convenient, and has bags of character; it is the perfect place to spend your downtime, and could easily become one of your highlights, too. Whether you want to shop and dine in air-conditioned comfort or hit the streets to take in the sights and sounds of the city, Xinyi has it all – inside and out.

Gongguan

2011-04-14T19:48:00.000-07:00

An article written for the Taiwan Culture Portal. For the original, go to http://www.culture.tw/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=2034&Itemid=156

There’s never going to be a shortage of places to go in Taipei when the sun goes down, and most of them are pretty nice. Fortunately for those of us who live up here, though, there are a few nightspots that offer something a little bit extra, and where a good night out is all but guaranteed. The vibrant, university district of Gongguan is one of those of those places, and it owes much of its appeal to the fact that the area actually seems to take on a life of its own after the sun goes down. The roads and lanes around Ting Zhou Road are packed full with restaurants, shops, bars, and food stalls; there’s so much variety, so many people walking around, and so much to see and do that it’s difficult not to get infected by the energy of the place.

In fact, Gongguan is comprised of so many different elements that it’s almost impossible to write about as a whole, so here it is, piece by piece.

Restaurants

The first thing you need to know about restaurants in Gongguan is that there are more Thai eateries here than anywhere else this side of Bangkok. In truth, it’s hard to tell most of them apart as they all seem to offer decent food at decent prices, but for me, there is one that stands out. It’s called 泰國小館 and you’ll find it on Ting Zhou Road. The décor really isn’t that great – it actually looks a bit like a cross between a poor person’s front room and a dirty backstreet shop – but you should overlook that, as they serve up cheap and fairly authentic food.

Over the last few months, brick oven pizza shops seem to have sprung up all over Taipei, so it should be no surprise to find one in Gongguan. It’s not the easiest place to find as it’s located down a little alley – Roosevelt Road, Lane 12, but it’s worth tracking down because the pizzas are fairly tasty and, at just NT$100 each, represent great value.

As you might expect, Gongguan has its share of restaurants selling hot pot, steak, and what passes in this country for curry. Now, I’m prepared to say it’s a cultural thing, but I don’t understand curry in Taiwan. I’ve grown up with good Indian cuisine, so Taiwanese curry houses with their dishes of chicken, breaded pork chop, or chewy bits of beef served in either a yellowish-brown or chocolate-brown sauce are a source of constant disappointment to me.

Anyway, on a slightly more elevated note, there are a couple of airline-themed restaurants on Ting Zhou Road, where diners sit on airplane seats and are served by waiting staff dressed as flight attendants.

Street Vendors

As if all of that wasn’t enough food, there’s also all the food stalls. Gongguan does have a pretty big and varied nightmarket where you can buy everything from sweet and savory snacks right on up to full-scale meals. As well as the inevitable dumplings, fried chicken, and spring onion pancakes, you’ll also find deep-fried breaded cheeses, sushi, Vietnamese cuisine, and, for some reason, barbecued duck’s head. It’s always good to sample local delicacies, but you also have to know your limits, and there are some foods that it’s probably better just to walk away from.

With these stalls, the attraction is generally the food rather than the vendors, but there are a few exceptions, and it’s hard not to turn your head and look when some girl with a squeaky voice keeps on saying “can can oh” (take a look). It’s not that these girls were born with squeaky voices; they just try to sound like pre-pubescent cartoon characters because, apparently, Taiwanese guys like that kind of thing. And that’s all I’m going to say about that.

Bars

It might not be the most obvious aspect of the neighborhood, but Gongguan does have a good bar scene. As seems always to be the case with Gongguan, there’s a wide range of places to choose from, and no matter how you like to drink your beer, you should find something to suit you.

If you head into the lanes behind XinSheng Road, you’ll find a few lounge bars where you can relax and enjoy a good Belgian beer. The best is probably Café Bastille, which has a good atmosphere, a great choice of imported premium beers, and a pretty good menu as well. For something a little bit cheaper and livelier, check out the beer garden near to the Water Park just off Ting Zhou Road. On summer evenings especially, there’s a great atmosphere, and it’s the perfect place to go with a big group of friends. Finally, there’s The Wall, which must rank as one of the city’s best live music venues. It’s located on the intersection of Roosevelt and Keelung Roads.

Shops

This is primarily a student area, so it’s probably not the best to come if you’re after high-end goods, but otherwise, there’s not much you can’t find in Gongguan. There are clothes shops and boutiques, sportswear stores, places to buy new and second-hand books, glasses, fashion accessories, and countless other things as well.

There are so many different things that could attract you to spend the night in Gongguan. In addition to everything written about above, there’s also a movie theater, a riverside park, and university grounds to wander around in. More important than any of the individual elements, though, is the fact that the area is definitely greater than the sum of its parts. Almost everywhere you go, there’s be a fresh assault on your senses with interesting people and things to see, foods to smell and taste, and music pouring out of shops. Why not add to the variety, drama, and excitement and take a trip down there for yourself?

Yehliu

2011-04-12T01:37:00.000-07:00

At Taiwan’s northernmost reaches is a stretch of land known locally as Tiaoshih Haian – The Thrown Rock Coast. It got its name from the boulders and rocks strewn on its beaches. There are several of them, and they’re all well worth spending a few hours on. The beaches are gorgeous, but they’re not the area’s only attractions.

The beauty of this and indeed any coastline is always based on the interaction of land and sea. Waves are forced to break and crash as they reach the shore, and, in turn, this continual action deposits sand on beaches and pounds away at rocky promontories and cliffs. As you travel along Taiwan’s northern coast, you’ll be met with incredible views of lush, green headlands seemingly forcing their way out into the ocean, and of waters intruding into quiet bays. Nowhere is this interplay more evident than in Yehliu – the north coast’s crowning glory.

It’s amazing what a few thousand years of erosion can do, and in Yehliu, you get to see almost everything that it’s capable of. In the town’s geopark (admission: adults – NT50, students and children – NT25) there are rocks shaped like honeycomb, others like tofu, and one that looks like an angel’s slipper. Most spectacular, though, are the mushroom stones with their tall narrow pillars and large, wide heads. They were formed by the sea, wind, and rain cutting away the softer underlying sandstone, leaving a greater mass of harder stone resting on top. The most famous of these mushroom stones is the Queen’s Head Rock, which, when looked at from the right angle, looks amazingly like a silhouette of Queen Nefertiti.

It is a fantastic sight, but it’s now become so popular that on busy days, you’ll have to wait in line for anything up to an hour to see and photograph the thing. For me, it’s not really worth it, especially as the best parts of Yehliu lie elsewhere. The path inside the geopark leads you among the mushroom rocks and then further out along the promontory. After crossing a bridge, it’ll take you up a hill towards a lighthouse. A lot of people don’t bother to climb all the way up, but you really should. Not only will you get some great views of the area, but it’ll also help you escape the crowds.

For me, though, to find the best scenery, you’ll have to walk about half a kilometer east along the coast. The rocks there may not look like people or animals or forms of footwear, but they actually display the beauty of nature all the better for that. Some of the rocks here are fascinating, as they’re made up of layers of differently colored sand. Reds, whites, yellows, and oranges dip and rise, and swirl in elaborate patterns across the rock face.

There are also huge towers of stone where layers of yellow sandstone are sandwiched between thin sheets of darker rock. The latter has eroded much more slowly and is left jutting out into the air. And finally, there are softly undulating sections of rock that flow out towards to the sea. They’re great to clamber over, the slightly abrasive nature of sandstone giving your feet excellent grip. However, you should still be careful if you go near the water’s edge. Some of the rocks are very steep, and you can never really be sure that a big wave isn’t going to suddenly come and wash over the stone. Stay away from the sides, though, and you won’t have any problems. As the rock rises upwards away from the sea, it leads to what must have been an old army lookout post. It’s a wonderful piece of history, and it’s great to be able to crawl around the tunneled out cavern and look out towards the sea from the carved out windows.

If and when you get tired of geology, there’s still a lot more to see and do. Outside the geological park is Yehliu Ocean Park, where, for three hundred dollars, you can be entertained by dolphin shows. And what Taiwanese tourist spot would be complete without a row of stalls selling souvenirs and food? The specialty here is dried fish snacks.

A few miles down the coast is the Green Bay resort area. There are a few nice hotels here, but unfortunately, they control access to the beach. I’m told that anyone willing to pay the entrance fee will find a wild and wonderful world of water sports awaiting them. So, a banana boat and a couple of jet skis, then.

If you’ve still got some energy left, and if you’ve got a head for heights, there’s a place nearby where you can try your hand at paragliding. If you’re interested, just look out for the bright yellow parachutes and let them guide your way up the winding hillside road. Even if you don’t want to jump, the views from the launch site are incredible.

Yehliu has so much to offer, and it’s just one of many fantastic destinations on Taiwan’s wonderful northern coast.

Tianjhong

2008-05-26T09:31:00.000-07:00

Baguashan八卦山 is a great mass of hills and valleys that covers 22,000 hectares of west central Taiwan. To see everything it had to offer would take months, the more places you visit, the more you realize just how much there is left to see. From Changhua彰化 in the north, to Ershuei二水 in the south, the entire area is shot through with landmarks, theme parks, cycle routes, and hiking paths. It’s a beautiful area and I’ve been taking the time to explore just a little of what’s on offer. Last week, I had the pleasure of visiting the Tianjhong Forest Park田中森林公園.

Baguashan is not a very tall mountain; in fact, it’s not really a mountain at all. The highest point stands at a meager 440 meters, and Tianjhong Forest Park doesn’t even get as high as that. That slight shortcoming aside though, the park seems to have it all; it’s really very pretty, it has great views, and, over its course, you walk through a range of different types of vegetation. The path is also suitable for regular hikers, occasional walkers, or those just out for a breath of fresh air.

As you set out from the car park, you snake your way up and over the first of a series of hills. The route is undulating enough to give experienced hikers a good workout, but doesn’t have any of the steep climbs that might deter less frequent walkers.

The slopes and valleys make for a picturesque trail, and after a few hundred meters you begin to get glimpses of the Great Changhua Plain. The view is marvelous, and from up high, looking down on the green paddy fields below, it’s easy to see why the area has been dubbed, “Taiwan’s major granary”.

Carry on walking and you’ll start to see signs for the Tea Trail. This is my favorite part of the route, and is perhaps the prettiest path I’ve ever been on. The tea plants are so well-groomed and neatly lined that they look more like the box hedges found in the gardens of European Manor houses. Their rich green color contrasts wonderfully with the orange earth and almost purple leaves of young pineapple plants.

Coming here is like taking a step back to a more simple time. There is a small village comprised of single-story red-brick houses, complete with courtyards and perimeter walls. I’m not sure what it is about buildings like this, the attraction of other, more elaborate structures, seems to fade over time, but I still cannot find these little houses anything other than extremely charming.

When your senses have had their fill, there’s nothing left but to return home a happier, and a more carefree soul.

Jhanghu, Yunlin County

2008-05-26T08:42:00.000-07:00

Imagine riding a motorbike down a country road. Steep river valley walls fall away beneath you on one side, and on the other, dense vegetation covers the hillside. It’s a sunny day, and the scenery is beautiful. Suddenly, no more than 5 meters in front of you, a small bird flies out of the trees and is quickly pursued by a huge eagle, its wingspan easily measuring well over a meter across. The eagle plucks the bird out of the air and flies away with his kill.

All this happened a few weeks ago while I was riding on the roads beside Chingshuei River清水河. The gorges and plunging valleys that line the river are the perfect places to spot eagles, usually soaring high above you, but sometimes, if you’re very very lucky, they burst from the trees and nearly make you crash your bike.

The Chingshuei River runs down through Nantou and into Yunlin County where it has cut for itself a formidable path through the surrounding rock. The resulting scenery and natural geographical features are wonderful, and also not particularly well known. Yunlin County doesn’t get much of entry in just about Taiwan guidebook you could ever lay your hands on. There may be a few lines about Douliou, its biggest city, but not much else. While it may be true that, compared to the scenic riches of its neighbors, Nantou and Chiayi, Yunlin appears a little impoverished, the area is not without appeal.

The small town of Jhanghu樟湖would be one example. It’s a tiny little town, so small you could easily drive past it without a second thought, but it’s also home a gorgeous little gorge.

The feature may not be as spectacular as places like Taroko, but what it lacks in heart stopping drama, it more than makes up for in simple, rustic charm. A small road leads down to a dirt path and suspension bridge, from there scramble over the rocks down to the riverside.

Walls of well chiseled rock loom over your head, while strewn at your feet, lie a mass of colored, patterned rocks and boulders. Oranges, yellows and browns are the predominant colors and interesting bright pink boulders complete the scene. The views both up, and downstream are lovely and full of promise. The only problem, and the gorge’s rather glaring flaw, is that it’s difficult to move very far in either direction. A waterfall blocks your path in one direction, and the river, wide and deceptively deep, stops you in the other. There are stepping stones to make your route easier, but they’re far apart and unless you’re long limbed, or come during a dry season, you find it to be a step too far.

If you do manage to get across, the terrain waiting for you remains virtually untouched. Perhaps the greatest example of this was a tiny canyon, carved from tightly packed sand. It appeared like a miniature version of the gorge surrounding it. Were the area more popular and accessible, the feature would have surely been destroyed by a succession of curious hands and careless feet.

Pleasant as it is, Jhanghu is not a place where you could spend a whole day, but don’t worry about that, just a few kilometers down the road is another gorge, the Ten Thousand Year Old Gorge 萬年峽谷 and Caoling草嶺, Yunlin’s most well-known tourist destination.

To get to Jhanghu, take the Meishan梅山 exit from Highway 3. Drive into Meishan and then follow the signs for the 149 road to Huashan華山. Stay on the 149 past Huashan and keep going till you reach Jhanghu.

Coffee central: Huashan

2008-05-25T19:45:00.000-07:00

In a country that prides itself on producing some of the world’s best tea, Taiwan’s coffee industry is grinding out an ever greater niche. Still regarded by many as a foreigner’s drink, the people of Yunlin and Chiayi are proud that in the hills of Gukeng Township古坑, the people of Taiwan are able to grow their own, high quality coffee beans. The area, which lies on boundary of the two counties, is called Huashan華山, and has been rightly nicknamed, “The home of Taiwanese coffee”.

The African Arabica beans grown here have a taste that is at first bitter, but which then quickly melts in the mouth into a rich, sweet flavor that has people coming from as far away as Taipei and Kaoshiung just to enjoy. It’s not just the coffee that they come for of course, the area has a nice market and amusements area, some fantastic scenery, and a host of paths and trails on which to take a stroll or hike. To get there, take the Meishan exit off the number 3 highway. Drive into Meishan town梅山 and follow the road signs for the 149 road into Huashan.

It’s impossible to write about the area as a single place, because there really are three Huashans. There is the daytime place where families, friends, and couples come to have fun and relax, there’s the hiker’s Huashan, and then there’s the nighttime place when the town really comes alive. The one thing that links the scenes together is coffee, the town, and especially its tourist activity, revolves around the stuff. Not only can you buy it, drink it, and eat it in coffee flavored foods, but when the beans are in season the air itself carries a trace of its unmistakable scent.

During the daytime, hoards of people make the trip up the mountain to eat lunch, or just enjoy the atmosphere. The town, with its narrow inclined roads, and surrounding hills and mountains is charming, and the views, picturesque. The market stalls are full of locally made products and foodstuffs, and it’s a lot of fun just to walk around and take in the sights and sounds of small-town Taiwan. There are also several roadside shops where you can try your hand at pottery. For a few hundred dollars you’ll receive clay and time at a potter’s wheel. You may not make the most attractive mug in the world, but you’ll definitely have fun nonetheless. Finally, and as you might expect, coffee is for sale about everywhere you care to look.

One of the coffee shops where you can spin the potter's wheel

There are a dozen walking paths around town where you can take a quiet stroll, many of them lead, or at least claim to lead, to something called Turtle Head Mountain. I’d love to tell you what it’s like up there, but even though I’ve walked the paths a number of times I’m slightly embarrassed to say that I’ve never actually found it. The paths are an absolute riddle, and the signposts don’t seem to help too much. It would be nice to get up there one day, but until I do, the paths still make for an enjoyable walk.

For something a little more strenuous, follow the road past the market and on out of town. When you reach a sign marked with the Chinese, 華山五號步道 (Huashan, number 5 walking path) park your bike or car and head off up the side road. The start of your route is inauspicious enough, but don’t let that deter you, it soon turns into something really special. After walking for about 30 minutes you start to see some of the most incredible views of the plains beneath you. The scene is fantastic, but the path is quite steep, so unless you’re the kind of person who enjoys hiking just for exercise, you should probably save it for a sunny day when the clear view of the lowlands will more than make up for your exertion. Even on a cloudy day however, there are things out there to entertain you. The wildlife is lovely, especially the brightly colored butterflies.

Finally, there’s the nighttime Huashan. After the sun goes down, the scores of coffee shops and restaurants turn on their lights and the mountain is lit up in a bright incandescent and neon glow. It’s strangely beautiful, and on a clear night when you can see the lights of nearby towns and cities, the view is stunning. The shops remain busy well into the night, and it’s no wonder because evenings, when you’re able to sit in the cool mountain air and gaze down on the lights below you, are the perfect times to enjoy the town’s most famous product.

In almost every way, Huashan is lovely little town, the perfect place for a full day, and night, of food, drink, and fun.

Tatajia sunrise

2008-03-05T20:57:00.000-08:00

Everyone in Taiwan has heard of the famous Alishan阿里山 sunrise, and it seems that every man and his dog have made the trip at least once. It is a great view, and a great experience but I have never seen anything that comes even close to rivaling the sunrise I was once priviledged to witness in Tatajia塔塔加.

In case you haven't heard of it, Tatajia is about 20km up the road from Alishan, and it's the usual starting point for hikers wanting to climb Yushan玉山. Most hikers camp out in a roadside car park, or pay 300元 to sleep in the bunk beds at the simple Dongpu Hostel東埔山莊. A few years ago though, I decided I would go my own way and pitch my tent up on one of Tatajia's hills. Howling winds and freezing temperatures made it a night I won't forget in a hurry. Any irritation or frustration I may have felt was soon dispelled however when the sun rose over the distant peaks. I cannot describe the splendor of that sight, the sky filled with constantly moving and changing color. I have traveled fairly widely, and I have seen many things, but sunrise that morning remains the most beautiful of them.

That was a few years ago, and I had to see if I could witness the spectacle again. So, ignoring the fact that we're still caught up in a bitterly cold winter, and the fact that Tatajia sits at an elevation of over 2500 meters, I decided I would ride my motorbike up there after work on Monday. "Don't you want to take your gloves?" my wife asked me before I left, "No, I'll be fine" I answered, but I wasn't. I was forced to buy some about halfway along my journey, but they were flimsy and woolen, and even after I put them on, I had to stop several times on my journey just to warm my hands up. By the time I got to Tatajia the pain in my fingers was ridiculous.

I set my alarm for 4am, and huddled down under 3 blankets in the Dongpu Hostel. I barely slept through the night, and when 4 o'clock came I was already dressed and heading out the door. The only problem then was that I didn't have a torch; it was probably lying at home next to my gloves. I made my way along the tree-lined paths by memory and the light of my old cellphone. I'll admit to being just the slightest bit scared.

I got to my destination, Mt. Linjhih麟趾山 and sat down to look at the stars. Tatajia is always popular with stargazers and the area even boasts its own observatory. There can't be many better places in Taiwan to come and look at the nighttime sky, and I was having a ball. The sight of a couple of shooting stars only added to the occasion.

Sunrise came at about 5.45. It was nice, but not really the thing of glory I had hoped for. With all that I'd been through to get there, I could have been forgiven for feeling disappointed, but that thought didn't even enter my head. Sunrise was nice, the night had been wonderful, and I still had a great morning in Tatajia to look forward to.

Rueifong

2008-02-25T02:17:00.000-08:00

Not many people have heard of Rueifong瑞峰, and even less have ever been there. The tiny Chiayi settlement, so small that it could barely even be called a town, has long been overshadowed by its better developed and far more tourist-centered neighbor, Rueili.

Until a few weeks ago I had only ever heard mention of the place once while a friend was giving me directions to Rueili. He put his hand on my shoulder and looked at me in a rather stern and almost fatherly manner, “You’ll come to a fork in the road,” he said, “if you go downhill you’ll get to Rueili, uphill goes to Rueifong. Make sure you don’t go to Rueifong.”

For years, his words held a great power over me, and though I went back to Rueili again and again, I never even thought of taking that other, uphill road. A few weeks ago however, something happened. Maybe it was recklessness, or maybe it was a brochure that proclaimed Rueifong, “The home of the waterfall”, but I decided it was time to go and see for myself what was there. I’m glad I made the decision because the scenery is spectacular and must rank amongst the best that Taiwan has to offer.

One of the town’s main attractions is the Jhukeng River Trail竹坑溪步道. At just under 2km, the trail is not very long, but what it lacks in length it more than makes up for in interest. You descend into, and are quickly enveloped by dense, oversized plant life. Greens of every shade and tone surround you, while shafts of sunlight strike through the foliage over your head. The trees and bushes around you pulse and throb with the movement of animals. Mostly you see birds, some of them wonderfully colored, some of them no bigger than your thumb, they fly and hop from branch to branch, or just hover in front of you. There are also insects, strange looking reptiles, squirrels, and other little furry animals. Walk the path slowly, keep your eyes open and your voice down, and who knows what you’ll see?

Just as quickly as you were enclosed by trees, you find yourself once again out in the open. A few turns of the trail later and you are met by a massive chasm. Rock hangs over your head, and below you it falls away for well over a hundred meters. The semi-circular back wall must measure more than 150m across, and the gorge stretches out far in front of you. The path takes you on behind Longgong Waterfall龍宮瀑布, and squeezes you under the overhanging rock.

Standing here, especially after just emerging from the dense undergrowth, you feel completely closed off from the outside world. On an island where any and every tourist destination is crawling with people, this, one of the most spectacular, has no one. The lack of people however only adds the scene’s “Lost World” feeling, and though I do think it’s a shame that more people haven’t been here, I also hope that it never becomes truly popular.

Another feature of the Jhukeng River Trail are its suspension bridges. There are 10 them in total, and they’re all made to a different design. There’s something about a suspension bridge, the way they wobble and bounce under your step, they make you feel strangely adventurous, and add to that outdoors feeling. Some of the bridges on the trail bounce more than others, and none more so than the precariously hand-rail free, “Soft Bridge”.

To get to the trail, follow Chiayi County highway 162 to the 36.5km mark. Turn off onto a small side road, and almost as soon as you do, you’ll see a wooden signpost pointing you down a pathway. It’s a pretty inauspicious start to such a wonderful pathway, so make sure that you don’t pass it by.

The road to Rueifong is long and varied, and you pass by a number of great tourist destinations, and some fantastic sights before you even reach Jhukeng. If you leave from Meishan梅山, take the 162 road towards Taiping. This will take you on an incredibly twisting and turning ride. Locals call it the road of 36 hairpins, and each one is marked with a roadside sign so can count them as you ascend. Taiping太平 is a great place to stop and stretch your legs. If you’re interested in seeing the sights, then there’s an old shopping street and an interesting temple that are worth a visit. After Taiping you’ll arrive at that, now infamous, fork in the road, take the uphill route. It quietly leads you through green corridors of trees and bamboo, and from there onto some of the most amazing mountain scenery you will ever see. Another 10km later, you’ll arrive at the tea plantations of Rueifong, and after that, it’s just a hop, skip and a jump to Jhukeng River Trail.

Gukeng, Yunlin

2008-02-24T18:02:00.000-08:00

If Gukeng古坑 in Yunlin County雲林縣 was ever famous, it was only due to its coffee. The town and surrounding area is one of the only places in Taiwan where it’s possible to grow coffee beans, and people have long been traveling from as far away as Taipei and Kaoshiung to drink the product. Until recently though, they never had a reason to stop in the town itself; people either went to the nearby Janhushan Amusement Park劍湖山, or drove straight up to Huashan華山 to try their brew there instead.

That’s all been changing over the last year, and convoys of tour buses, along with hundreds of family day-trippers now regularly make their way to the little town. They’re all heading to one place, a small park on the edge of the town, just a few kilometers outside Douliou City斗六.

The park is easy to spot, especially during festivals and holidays when parked cars line the nearby roads. When you stop and take a look around, it’s easy to see why so many people come here. The area, although small, is fun and relaxing, the perfect place for families looking to wind down and enjoy themselves.

There are three main play areas. One of them contains a massive a 2/28 memorial sculpture, and an interesting looking wooden sculpture or climbing frame, I couldn’t work out which. Rather bizarrely there’s also a wooden bridge sitting in the middle of the field, and more bizarrely still, there are about a hundred thin wooden poles stuck in the ground. People seem to like it though, and I guess that’s what it’s all about.

Another area has a large paved square, flanked on all sides by water pumps, great fun, especially in the summer. Finally, and perhaps the most popular of the three areas, is a large open field. It may not be the most exciting sounding of places, but it’s actually the perfect place for families to come together and kick a soccer ball or play games like badminton or frisbee.

Walking paths and beautifully colored trees run in between these different areas, and if you’re in need of a sit down, there are plenty of attractive marble benches where you can do just that.
There’s an imaginatively named “Honey Museum” at one end of the park. It houses a tiny exhibition detailing how honey is made, but really it’s just an excuse for a big shop selling all manner of honey-flavored foods and drinks. Try the honey ice-cream from the café outside, it’s surprisingly good.

A row of stalls and a covered market complete the list of amusements. As well as all the usual snack foods, you’ll also find the famous Gukeng coffee, and dried fruits from neighboring Meishan 梅山.

This is a family place, so if you’re looking for something with more excitement you’re probably better off going to Janhushan Amusement Park. If however, you’re just looking for somewhere pleasant to spend a few hours then this could be just the place.

Chingshuiyen清水岩, Changhua County

2008-02-11T23:34:00.000-08:00

Changhua’s Great Buddha Statue may well be Baguashan’s八卦山 most famous attraction, but by no means could it be counted as the area’s only interesting site. Baguashan, or Mount Bagua, covers an area of around 22,000 hectares and is home to dozens of hiking trails and bike paths.
With the ongoing surge in popularity of hiking in Taiwan, many of these routes have had makeovers recently. Nothing has been drastically altered, but walkways have been tidied up, new signposts and information boards have been added, and car parks and bathroom facilities have been improved. Another change, and one which is especially useful, is that new road signs have been erected. Changhua County Highway 141, which runs from Linnei林內 to Yuanlin員林, has a wealth of these brown signs, all of them directing you towards the hiking trails and scenic spots that would have otherwise remained hidden in the mountains.

One such sign points to Chingshuiyen清水岩. This bustling little hiking destination is home to several short, but highly entertaining walking trails. The first paths you come to after leaving the car park, crisscross their way to and from Wufeng Mountain’s various peaks. Each peak is marked by a pavilion and a great view across the ever-interesting Changhua Plain. Rice fields stretch as far as the eye can see, and it’s not hard to see why some have nicknamed this area, “Taiwan’s granary”. Increasingly though, the fields are punctuated by industrial influences; large towns, busy highways, and the new high speed railway can all now clearly be seen.

Nice as they are, these paths are not very long and even the most occasional of walkers will complete them with little real effort, so when you get to the Third Peak, look out for the sign marking the start of the Central Ridge Trail. This undulating walkway will lead you over and around Chingshuiyen’s valleys and peaks. The route’s many trees, a result of a 1950’s reforestation project, keep the area green and full of life. Pavilions again line the route, and they help give the place a communal and friendly atmosphere.

A steep staircase at the end of the trail leads up to large, tea and pineapple plantations. The heavily cultivated plateau is wide and flat, and serves as a wonderful contrast to the wooded hills you will have just left behind.

From here it is possible to join up with Chingshuiyen’s other major hiking trail, The Ancient Trail of 18 Turns. To do so, turn left at the top of the steps and follow the path to a small seating area. It would appear that a farmer has tried to block the path at this point, but it is still fairly easy to climb over the fence and continue on your way.

The Trail of 18 Turns dates back to the 17th century and, up until the modern era of cars and highways, served as the main trading link between Shetou社頭 Township in Changhua County, and Mingjian名間 Township in Nantou. Salt was the main commodity transported along the route, and it’s fascinating to think that pathways we use today for pleasure and recreation were being used 400 years ago by merchants and workmen hauling huge bags of salt from the coast.

Chiayi Park

2008-02-03T06:02:00.000-08:00

When you think of a park, you think of trees, grass, and a few benches; a nice little place where a family could spend an hour or two, but nothing very special. While in most cases that might be a good description, Chiayi Park is a little different.

The first thing to note is that this is no “little place”. The grounds actually cover an area, close to 270,000 square meters in size. With all that land available, it’s only right that there should be a place for everyone. One of the best points about the park is that whoever you are, and however you like to spend your weekend afternoons, you will find something to suit your interests. The park’s greatest achievement though, is that each feature is special in its own right, and could stand alone as the reason for your visit. When you put them all together in one place, you have an area of land so crammed full of interest, variety, and beauty, that to call it “a park” seems to do it a great injustice.

As you walk through the gates, Chiayi Park seems ordinary enough. It has its proper share of benches, trees, grass, and families having a nice time. The large duck pond with its fountains and bridges, and the thick rows of colorful flower beds are very pretty, but even they couldn’t begin to give you an impression of how big the park is, or of what awaits you inside.

Chiayi Park was created more than 60 years ago when Taiwan was under the colonial rule of Japan. It’s no surprise then, that Japanese influences can be seen everywhere in the park’s gardens and many pavilions. Nowhere are they more obvious though, than in a group of old Japanese style buildings that now house a museum chronicling the history of both Chiayi Park, and Chiayi City. All the museum’s exhibits are in Chinese, but foreigners would still be advised to take a look inside as the little buildings are really very pretty.

The park’s age is evident as you walk along its many kilometers of pathways. Some of the concrete pavilions and benches are starting to crack and crumble, and others have plants and trees growing over and around them. Rather than look unpleasant though, these signs of wear and tear just add to the place’s charm and romance. Perhaps the main reason why this should be the case, is that the park is otherwise so clean and well maintained.

Chiayi Park’s greatest asset is the massive Shanzihding Botanical Garden. Shanzihding is so large, and contains such a great wealth of trees and plants, that when you walk around inside you completely forget that you’re still in the city. The tall trees that tower over your head, and the bushes and plants that grow closer to the ground are perfect places for wildlife to thrive. I was lucky enough to see the most unusual bird. It was fully 40cm high, appeared to be flightless, and was hunting for grubs on the ground. The irony is that it’s only here in the city that you’d get to see something like this; the forest recreation areas in the country are just too busy.

The biggest landmark in the park is the 62 meter high Chiayi Tower, also sometimes known as the Sun Shooting Tower. The latter and more colorful of these two names is a reference to an old aboriginal myth, one which is depicted in a huge bronze sculpture in the middle of the tower. For 30元 you can take an elevator to the top of the building. The small fee is well worth it, as the view across the small city of Chiayi is surprisingly good. Another interesting view is the one you get through glass panels set in the floor. If you’re brave enough, you can stand on top of the panels and look straight down to the ground floor 10 stories beneath you.

With other features like a Confucius Temple, an old Alishan steam locomotive, and a children’s play area, coming here can easily turn into an all day experience. Whether or not you’ve got a whole day to spare though, if you live even remotely close to Chiayi, it’s about time you paid a visit to Chiayi Park.

Meishan, The Great Gorge 梅山大峽谷

2008-01-29T06:33:00.000-08:00

The natural world contains innumerable different treasures. All of them are special, from the highest mountains right down to the seashore with its ocean sounds, beaches, and cliffs. My favorite places in nature though, are rivers, and rugged, boulder-strewn rivers at that.

I like them so much because, to me, they have everything. The banks of the river provide natural homes to the scores of animals, birds, and insects attracted to the area. The rocks and boulders that litter the river bed and its flood plain make for the perfect playground; if you’ve never jumped up and climbed over riverside boulders, then you really should give it a try. If you do prefer something more relaxed though, the rocks also make for a great picnicking spot. What makes mountain rivers so fascinating though, is the fact that they constantly evolving. With each heavy rainfall, boulders and logs are moved, washed in, or washed away, and the environment never looks the same from one year to the next. If all that isn’t enough for you, the scenery is usually pretty good too.

Meishan, The Great Gorge梅山大峽谷 is a quiet and out of the way destination in Chiayi County. It contains nearly everything I love about nature, and is certainly one of my favorite places to visit. The sandstone walls of the gorge are contoured with years of heavy erosion. They are beautiful when seen from afar, but when you get close and look at the lines and patterns running through the rock, they really come alive.

In various places, streams running down from the surrounding hills, pour over the rocks and down into the river. Some of the water collects in small pools which become a real haven for all forms of animal life. Tadpoles or frogs, along with crabs and snails can be seen in the water. Marvelously skittish dragonflies in shades of electric blue or bright scarlet fly and buzz above the surface. There are also a wide variety of colorful birds that bob, dip, and swoop through the gorge.

Getting down to the river’s edge is fairly easy, and from there you can walk along the sands of the riverbank, and see you the chasm in all its glory.

To get to Meishan, The Great Gorge, leave Meishan town on the 162 road. Drive past Taiping太平, stay on the 162, and head on towards Rueifong瑞峰. About 9km after Taiping you’ll come to a sign advertising The Great Gorge. From there, simply follow the sign down the side road. You’ll arrive at a small holiday resort which marks the entrance to the gorge. The resort is home to a few very charming cottages which would be ideal for families or couples. Children will also enjoy the on-site butterfly and insect farm.

It will take you about 3 hours to get to the gorge from Meishan, so it’s quite a long drive, but it’s also spectacular. The views of the Central Mountain Range are amongst the best that I have ever seen.

The Big Buddha of Baguashan, Changhua

2008-01-18T23:57:00.000-08:00

From the top of Baguashan八卦山, about 30 minutes south of Taichung台中, a huge statue of the Buddha watches over Changhua City彰化巿. The black statue, visible above the many downtown high rise buildings, is truly magnificent.

I first saw it about five years ago, soon after first arriving in Taiwan, and the sight gave me a real thrill. Part of the reason was that magnificence, but it was also because the statue seemed so symbolic, not just of Taiwan, but of the entire Far East. The Buddha is a uniquely Asian figure. More than that though, the juxtaposition of the sprawling, fast-paced city, together with a wholly spiritual image, is very characteristic of the region. In recent years Asian countries have experienced rapid economic growth, and yet they maintain their religious traditions. What better example of this phenomenon than Changhua City’s skyline? Finally, the statue has a grandeur mixed with an unmistakable sense of serenity that cannot fail to impress you.

The exact dimensions of the Buddha are hard to pin down; depending on which guidebook you read it’s either 23 or 30 meters high. Either way, that’s very big, so big in fact that you can actually walk around inside the monument. The interior is separated into various different floors, each one containing a series of life-size statues that tell the story of the Buddha.

The giant statue is seated on top of a huge lotus flower. Interestingly enough, the year after the site was completed Taiwan had the largest levels of rainfall it had known in many years. Locals said that the gods were sending the all the rain to provide enough water for the huge flower.

The Buddha is situated towards the front of a grassy courtyard. In front, steps lead down to two large guardian lions, and in front of them is a semi-circular walkway and vantage point. This is a great place to stand, on one side you have the great statue, and on the other you have an excellent panorama of Changhua City. At he back of the courtyard is a large and rather ornate temple.

After enjoying all this, it’ll be time to take a look at the surrounding area. Baguashan, or Mount Bagua is a actually a series of hills that run almost 30km from Changhua in the north, to Ershueiニ水 in the south. To the rear of the statue is a sort of road-side park. There’s a great variety of people here, from athletically minded seniors getting a bit of exercise, to hand-in-hand romantic couples out for a stroll, to young families just enjoying the day. The atmosphere is warm and relaxed, and it’s a great compliment to the much busier statue area.

The whole site makes for a great afternoon, and it’s one place I will make a point of going back to again and again.

Guanziling 關仔嶺

2008-01-12T21:46:00.000-08:00

I once believed that the hot springs of one area were much the same as those of another, and that when you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all. It seems I was mistaken. With waters ranging from milky white, to blue, green, muddy and clear, not only do hot springs look different, but the minerals they contain, and healing properties they possess, also vary from region to region. Taiwan, more than most other countries, is actually particularly blessed with a wide variety of different kinds of springs; some of the most famous lie in Tainan’s Guanziling關仔嶺.

Guanziling’s naturally cloudy-white water is very rare, and can only be found in two other places in the world. The color comes from the mineral rich clay deposits which lie underneath the town. The springs are said to have healing properties, but what really makes them famous are their apparent beautifying attributes. The water, and more especially the mud, leaves your skin feeling soft and smooth, and has been dubbed as a natural cosmetic.

When you’re finished soaking in the tub, you’ll find that this is one spa town with a lot more on offer than just its hot springs. The town center has a couple of parks and is pleasant enough to walk around, but for the best that the area has to offer, you’ll have to drive just outside the main town. The first site you arrive at, the Water and Fire Cave水火洞 is perhaps Guanziling’s most famous. The underground springs contain huge amounts of methane which rises to the surface where it ignites and burns. At the Water and Fire Cave, the gas bubbles up through a pool of water. Despite the fact that the resulting flames are now fairly weak and less than a meter high (they used to burn as high as 3 meters into the air) the overall effect seeing fire rise out of water remains both interesting and unusual.

A few meters further along the road is the attractive Temple of Azure Clouds碧雲寺. In both its situation, and design, the temple is really very pretty. It sits in front of, and is overshadowed by a large, almost monolithic outcrop of rock, and the colorfully painted statues and carvings inside the temple complete its aesthetic allure. Another feature is the “Rice Cave” which lies just outside the main temple gate. The story goes that the cave, actually just a small hole in the rock, would naturally produce rice, enough for all of the temple’s people. One night though, a monk got greedy and took rice from the hole all night. From then on, not a single grain has been found in the cave.

The Rice Cave

Finally there’s the intriguingly named Big Fairy Temple 大仙寺. This huge temple complex with its large gardens, pagodas and shrines makes for a superb picnicking spot, just what you need after a long day’s sightseeing.

Hot springs, a natural marvel, and beautiful temples set amongst some gorgeous mountain scenery, it could only be Guanziling.

Getting there:
From Shinying to the south, or Chiayi to the north, make your way along Highway 1 until you reach route 172. Take this road past Baihe白河 and on to Guanziling.

Exploring Bihu, Chiayi County

2007-12-29T22:39:00.000-08:00

Turn down a country road in Taiwan, follow it for 10-20km and more often than not you’ll come across a quaint little town, a fantastic view, a hiking trail, or some other point of interest that will make you want to stop and look around. Perhaps this is true of many countries, but what makes Taiwan special is that the countryside is both so varied, and so close at hand.

It does not matter where you are on this island, you won’t have to go far before you’re out of the city. The fact that every county, practically every township, has its own individual topography, vegetation, and agriculture, means that there is a whole world of travel not far from your doorstep. Some of these places are out of the way, and you might have to be a little adventurous to reach them; nothing too drastic though, just a case of taking an unknown road or two, and seeing where they lead you.

One such road you might want to venture down, is the one that takes you into Bihu碧湖, Chiayi County. This quiet little agricultural area is an absolute mine of gorgeous scenery and rural charm. To reach it, follow route 162 from Meishan梅山 to Taiping太平. Past Taiping you’ll come to a fork in the road, one path goes down towards Rueili瑞里, the area’s biggest travel destination, the other goes up towards Rueifong瑞峰. Take the higher road and follow it few a few kilometers until you reach another fork, again take the higher path, and you’ll be heading into Bihu.

This steep, climbing road is flanked by a mass of trees and plants; and above your head, a sea of bamboo leaves shake and shimmer in the bright blue sky. When the trees clear you’ll find yourself among vast tea plantations that stripe the surrounding hills in neat green rows.
The tarmac twists, turns, and hairpins its way up the hillside. About halfway up, you’ll find a viewing pavilion which gives a tremendous vantage point across the Central Mountain Range. When looked at across the green and ordered foreground, the great towering masses of rock seem all the more imposing, and the chasm-like drops yet more exhilarating.

At the top of the road you’ll arrive at the Bihu Mountain Tea Park碧湖山觀光茶園, one of several tea houses in the area. This is a great place to eat, drink, take in the views, or wander amongst the tea plantations.

From here the road goes off into two or three separate directions, and each of the new routes will themselves split into two or three more. You could spend days exploring this area and still never see all that it has to offer, but I’ll go back and try all the same.

Chukou, Chiayi County

2007-12-15T04:56:00.000-08:00

Have you ever been sure that you knew something, a place or a person maybe, only to then see it, or them from a different angle, and have all your opinions blown away? That’s exactly what happened to me recently, not once, but twice when I stumbled back across the town of Chukou in Chiayi County.

The first instance was when I quite literally saw the place from a different angle. One lazy Saturday morning when I was out for a drive, just taking any road that seemed interesting and not caring where I went, I looked down into a valley and saw what looked like an interesting little town. Strangely, the sight was at once familiar, and unrecognizable. It took me a while to realize that I was looking down on Chukou, a town I had driven past about a hundred times on the way up to Alishan, but never seen from this vantage point. Piqued with curiosity, I decided to go down and take a look around.

The town’s main attractions are a pair of suspension bridges, and a large temple. The bridges span a rather rugged looking mountain river, and are really quite picturesque. If you cross the higher of the two bridges and follow the path on a few meters you’ll come to a curious little shrine, squeezed underneath an over-hanging rock. The large temple down below is dedicated to Ji Gong, one of the more interesting gods, he is always depicted carrying a fan in one hand, and a gourd of wine in the other. People visit the temple to ask him about their future and, when he so chooses, he’ll tell them. He will also sometimes possess the bodies of certain devotees.

Looking like a cross between a turtle and a dragon, these interesting bronze statues can be seen all around the temple.

Leaving Chukou on the number 18 road, I learnt something else new about the town, that it is the home of an Ecological Park. The park is about 2 hectares in size, and was created as a place to protect, cultivate, and preserve the area’s trees. It hosts several hundred species of trees and plants, a pair of streams, and an eco pond. The whole site has been constructed using ecological engineering so as to attract local wildlife.

As the park establishes itself, and the trees grow, this will become an increasingly nice place to stop for a picnic. With the temple, the mountain views, and the suspension bridges, the Eco-Park makes up a set of pleasant reasons why you should stop and take a look around Chukou.

Sun Moon Lake

2007-12-08T22:43:00.000-08:00

Set like a jewel among the green hills and mountains of central Taiwan, Sun Moon Lake 日月潭 is glorious. On a sunny day the lake surface dances and sparkles in the light, and when the mist rolls in from the surrounding peaks, the area’s dazzling beauty melts away into something more alluringly mysterious. In any weather, and at whatever time of day, if you take time to gaze at the scenery from one of the many vantage points around the lake, you will not be able to help but feel truly enchanted.

Sun Moon Lake has it all, Chinese and aboriginal culture, fantastic scenery, and a collection of great hiking trails, whatever you want to come for, and however you like to travel, this tourist hotspot will both accommodate and entertain you. There is an excellent camping ground situated right next to the lake, the site is large, and is well provided for with hot showers and toilets, all of which are kept clean. Be warned though, that it can be a difficult place to find, so look out for the 6.5 km marker on the road going round the lake, the turnoff for the campsite is very nearby. If the idea of sleeping outside doesn’t grab you though, there is also an excellent range hotels, from budget accommodation right up to Taiwan’s most expensive, The Lalu 涵碧樓. Many of these have spa facilities and views across the lake, and, if you were so inclined, you could easily spend your entire time relaxing within the confines of your hotel. The only problem with that though, is that wouldn’t get to see the rest of what the area has to offer.

Probably the most imposing of Sun Moon Lake’s attractions is Wen Wu Temple 文武廟. As you approach Wen Wu, the first thing you notice is its immense size. This isn’t really just one temple, but rather a whole complex of shrines, courtyards, and pagodas. Guarding the entrance are Asia’s largest stone lions, and behind them lie the various shrines which honor both the pen of scholastic learning, and the sword of military might. The Temple’s main gate, its elaborate carvings, and sloping tiled roofs are attractions in their own rights, and it is here at the temple that you’ll be able to take some of your best, and most artistic photos of Sun Moon Lake itself.

Though Wen Wu might be the grandest place you’ll visit, there’s no doubt that the Tsen Pagoda 慈恩塔 is the loftiest. Built by Chiang Kai Shek to commemorate his mother, the 9-floored Tsen Pagoda, or the Pagoda of Filial Virtue is a wonderfully serene site. The tower sits in the middle of a large open square, the floor of which is covered with white gravel. On sunny days these little stones are dazzlingly bright, and the whole place looks as if it might be covered in snow. The pagoda is lit up at night, and though not many people venture up there after the sun has gone down, it is then that the landmark is at its most stunning.

Smaller, more remote, and les visited than Wen Wu, is the Hsuanchuang Temple 玄狀寺. The temple enshrines some small stones, said to have been found among the ashes of the historical Buddha. The stones, which are called ssu-li-tzu, are apparently often found in the remains of devout Buddhist teachers after their cremations. The ssu-li-tzu at Hsuanchuang Temple are regarded as very important Buddhist relics.

Sun Moon Lake has some strong aboriginal influences, and is historically the home of the Thao, or Shao aboriginal tribe. For aboriginal souvenirs and cuisine, and to get a look at a working aboriginal village, you should go Idashao (also known as Dahuasho德化社), about halfway around the lake. For a more comprehensive, and touristy view of aboriginal culture, head to the nearby Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village九族文化村. With amusement park rides, exhibits, recreations of aboriginal villages, and entertaining live shows which display the culture of a variety of Taiwan’s aboriginal tribes, this place is a day out all by itself.

Back to the lake and, if you’re still not tired, there are a wealth of places where you can go walking or hiking. Some of the more interesting trails and parks include: the Mount Maolan Trail which starts opposite the bus station in Sun Moon Lake’s main town and which takes you past a tea plantation and up to the weather forecasting center; The Peacock Garden, which you’ll find near to the Youth Activity Center and the campsite; and the Mount Shuisho trail which, despite its beauty, is not for the faint hearted as it takes about 7 - 8 hours to complete.

So, for a holiday destination that really does have it all, you can’t look too far past Sun Moon Lake.

Alishan

2007-11-11T20:08:00.000-08:00

I am intrigued by Alishan 阿里山; thousands of people ascend the misty peaks every weekend – but for what exactly? Some of the scenery is undeniably beautiful, but I find its deliberately planned walkways to be too ordered, too regimented. To me, they seem to keep you away from nature, instead of bringing you closer to it. Then there are the people themselves; every well signposted feature and path is crammed with them, it is near impossible to shake the crowds and get any time to yourself, and the Chinese phrase 人山人海 people mountain, people sea has never been more apt. But what do I know? Alishan is popular, it’s beautiful, people love it, and what’s more, when my parents were visiting Taiwan recently, it was the first place I thought about taking them.

Alishan is the perfect place for those who want to spend time in the mountains, but who are not serious about hiking. Its nature trails and scenic hotspots are carefully packaged pieces of countryside, none of them particularly strenuous or intimidating. You get the great outdoors, but are in no danger of getting either your hands or shoes, or for that matter your LV bag, dirty. The simple truths are that most people do not want to spend their weekends scrambling over dirt paths, and that the very reasons why I don’t love Alishan are precisely the reasons why you should probably join the crowds and head up there sometime soon.

Revisiting the resort after a 2 year absence, I finally overcame my enochlophobia (look it up), accepted the crowds, and was surprised to find it really quite pleasant. There are so many things to see and do, that you shouldn’t really ever be left with a dull moment.

Alishan's shopping arcade

Alishan’s main draw is probably sunrise, and I can’t help feeling that this is a little strange. How many other destinations have as their chief attraction, an exercise that involves waking up at some unearthly hour and standing outside in the cold, waiting for an event which quite often never happens? Sunrise viewing though, is an activity made by the people. There are few times in life that you can look at a stranger and openly, warmly, smile. This is one of them. Huddled together on the train up to Chushan you look at your fellow travelers with a smile that says, “Ooh, it’s cold”, “I can’t believe I woke up so early”, and “I’m happy I’m not the only one.” Even on the days when the sun fails to make an appearance, that mood of friendly intimacy continues, and it doesn’t matter that all your efforts were for nothing. On better days when the sun does come up over the mountains the crowd claps and cheers, and you can’t help but feel roused, full of enthusiasm for the coming day.

After heading back to Alishan you’ll probably want to stroll around the resort’s paths and trails. Setting out from the town, the first place you’ll come to is Shoujhen Temple. It is an interesting little place and well worth a visit, not least because of its location. The temple sits adjacent to the local elementary school, and though I say you should go there, I do feel sorry for the students, whose education must receive daily interruptions by loud and overly-curious visitors.

The nearby magnolia garden is charming at any time of year, even in winter when there isn’t a flower in sight. In spring though, with the flowers in bloom, the garden is very pretty indeed. The Sister Ponds, an old Alishan favorite, are nice enough, but it is only when the famous Alishan mist rolls in that they become beautiful; and I feel that the same could be said of the entire resort. There are many tourist destinations which are “made” by a certain light, or variance of climate, Alishan is certainly no exception. On a bright, sunny day it is merely a pleasant place to take a walk, with the mist however, the area is lent a wonderfully mysterious and alluring air.

The other attractions are largely centered on the park’s many trees. Alishan Sacred Tree may have fallen, but with the Giant Trees Trail, the heart-shaped Love Tree, the Three-Generation Tree (a living tree stands on top of an older tree trunk, which in turn lies on top of an even older tree stump), and Elephant Trunk, there should be more than enough to delight any pair of eyes.
Alishan may not be first choice if I want a long hard hike, but that’s missing the point really. What Alishan does, and does it better than any other place in Taiwan, is give you a place where you can wander through picturesque scenery before returning to the comforts of a decent hotel. Now that sounds like a pretty good weekend.

The heart-shaped Love Tree

The Elephant Trunk

Tatajia and Yushan Front Peak

2007-10-28T08:18:00.000-07:00

Taiwan’s Yushan National Park is a place of immense beauty. With panoramic views, inter-lapping mountains, and deep, plunging valleys, Yushan must have the most stunning mountain scenery anywhere in Taiwan. Seas of dense, billowing clouds often fill the valleys, giving you the impression that you’re standing on top of the world. Jade Mountain itself, or Yushan as it’s known locally, stands at over 3500m and provides the perfect centerpiece for the area.

One of the best things about the Park is the dramatic change it undergoes with each passing season. I have been there four or five times, and have seen something different with every visit. Spring is a burst of color as flowers everywhere come into bloom; green fills the landscape in summer and fall when the plants and trees are at their fullest: during winter, much of the plant life dies away and the views are a lot more clean and crisp, you should even see snow on the top of Yushan.

Then there’s the sky. You could lose yourself in the skies above Yushan. Blues of the very deepest and richest shades fill them during the daytime. At sunset, sharp reds give way to a subtle purple that gently blankets the entire landscape. In the black of nighttime, the stars are so bright, so clear, and seem so close that you’d swear you could reach out and touch them; and finally, sunrise. At its best, the morning sky is filled with the most dazzling display of colors that you will have ever seen. From a brilliant red at the horizon, through oranges and yellows, to greens and on to ever deeper and darker shades of purple and violet; you cannot come here and fail to be entranced.

To climb Yushan Front Peak, you’ll have to first go to Tatajia. To get there, follow the No. 18 road to Alishan, but then drive about 25 kilometers past that town. Serving as a home base for most people’s attempts on Yushan’s Main Peak, Tatajia must also rank as one of Taiwan’s best hiking destinations in its own right.

You should start your walk early, the weather’s better, the air is clearer, and it’ll give you more time to complete your hike. If you want to stay the night in Tatajia, there is a small hostel you could stay in. Separate male and female dorms, and a bucket of cold water for a shower though, make for very simple accommodation and it’s little wonder that most people just pitch a tent in the parking lot by the side of the road.

From Tatajia it’s a short and very pleasant walk to the gate of Yushan National Park. To keep going past this point you will need a permit, for information on how to get one, go to http://www.ysnp.gov.tw/ After the gate, its just 3.5km to the top, but don’t let that modest distance fool you, this isn’t an easy walk. For nearly a kilometer, the path takes you up an extremely steep slope, covered with loose and angular rocks. However experienced a hiker you are, you’ll be glad to reach the top.

Yushan Front Peak is a small but intriguing hike set in one of Taiwan’s most beautiful areas. Suitable for both experienced walkers and complete beginners, you should definitely give it a go. Keep one eye on the weather when you plan your trip though. While many scenic spots need the right conditions to set off their beauty, Yushan’s charms can be stripped away almost entirely in murky, cloudy weather. So avoid those times, come when it’s sunny and you will be treated to some of the finest views you’re ever likely to see.

Wu Feng Temple and Park in Jhongpu, Chiayi County

2007-10-12T18:38:00.000-07:00

In modern day Taiwan, Wu Feng is a controversial figure, many say that his life story has been exaggerated and manipulated, and others believe that he never even existed. In Jhongpu however, (a quiet little town just a few minutes outside Chiayi on the No. 18 road) you will still find a couple of interesting sites built in his commemoration.

The story runs that Wu Feng was born in China in 1699, and settled in Chu-lo Hsien, the site of present day Chiayi City. An intelligent and kind young man, he learned the aboriginal languages and set about resolving disputes between them and the Chinese plainsmen. He proved himself to be both fair and incorruptible, and won the respect and affection of the two rival groups of people. During his time as a government official, he stood up for the aborigines against the plainsmen who tried to cheat and bully them out of land and money. He also vowed to abolish the aboriginal custom of human sacrifice, a feat he eventually achieved, but only at the expense of his own life.

To appease their gods and stop the spread of an infectious disease that was killing many of their people, the aborigines vowed to sacrifice the plainsmen. Wu Feng told them he would let them kill one plainsman, a man dressed all in red who would come to them at noon. When the man came, they immediately set upon and killed him. After striking him down, they realized that the man was none other than Wu Feng. So appalled were they by what they had done, that they vowed to end their practice of human sacrifice.

When the Kuomintang's ruled Taiwan by martial law, this story was required reading for all Taiwanese schoolchildren. When martial law was lifted in 1987 however, aborigines protested at the way they were portrayed in the story. It was also felt that the whole saga was fabricated by the KMT to give the impression that the Chinese in Taiwan were necessary, civilising influences.

Wu Feng Temple is a 3rd class historical site, and houses a permanent exhibition which honors the traditional legend. Apart from retelling the old story, the modest exhibition also contains statues, paintings, documents and artifacts. It represents a small but interesting window on Taiwanese history; and wherever you stand on the issue, the very nature of this controversy should be a lesson on Taiwan's turbulent past.

The gate to Wu Feng Temple

The front and rear shrines at Wu Feng Temple

About 15 minutes down the road from the Wu Feng Temple, is Wu Feng Park. The less imposing of the two places, Wu Feng Park is also my favorite. Its low, red-clay walls that enclose and divide the site have huge character. One of the best things about them is that, while they separate the different areas of the park, they don’t close anything off. Their many octagonal, circular, and jar-shaped openings, windows, and doorways see to that, and also provide many intriguing multi-layered views through several of the parks’ enclosures. Walking round the outside of the park, you really feel that you’re stepping back through time into 18th century Taiwan.

Wu Feng Park is the now the headquarters of the Alishan National Scenic Area. In keeping with this, the central courtyard is devoted to an exhibition which shows Alishan’s past, present, and its proposed future developments. Fittingly, there is a large display showing off the history and modern crafts of the region’s Tsou aboriginal tribe.

A large wooden penis, um..?

Both the Temple and the Park have peaceful and relaxing grounds where you can easily wile away an hour or two with a good book or newspaper. So if you’re in the area, or just passing by,
why not stop off and have a look around.

Chung Cheng University

2007-10-06T04:45:00.000-07:00

At the heart of Chung Cheng University’s 中正大學 leafy 132 hectare campus, is a large and picturesque lake. The walking path around its perimeter is really very pretty and boasts a rich variety of plants and trees. With vivid greens, coppery reds and oranges, pinks, and yellows, the leaves and flowers around the lake fill the route with life and color. A rare species of black swan grace the lake’s surface. They glide elegantly across the water while the more rowdy ducks noisily squabble with each other.

The university campus is very easy to get around, well signposted in both English and Chinese, you’d have a hard job getting lost; the sidewalks are broad and plentiful, and the roads are quiet, as motorbikes and scooters are not allowed on campus.

As you make your way around, a few things will quickly become obvious, firstly that this is a friendly and inviting place. There are large courtyards and open spaces where groups of students meet to play games or practice their dance moves, activities that stand in stark and favorable contrast to the main pastime of heavy drinking that English students engage in. For something a little quieter, many of roads are lined with benches where you can sit and talk with a friend, or just watch the world go by.

Then there are the trees, they’re everywhere. Chung Cheng has an around 200000 of them in a huge number of different species. To add to the “green” feeling of the site there are also some large grassy fields, and well maintained gardens.

Finally, there are the buildings. While not beautiful, not by any conventional sense of the word anyway, they are most certainly imposing. Rising out of the ground in various shades of orange and gray, they dominate the skyline and command your attention, none more so than the centrally located administration building. With its gothic looking twin bell towers and unusual pyramidal shape, the building’s original design makes it a real focal point for the University.

If you live in the Chiayi 嘉義 area you may want to take advantage of Chung Cheng’s excellent sports facilities. With an Olympic-size indoor swimming pool and extra outdoor pool, a golf driving range, bowling alleys, rooms for weight lifting and judo, and badminton, tennis, and volleyball courts, there should be something to satisfy anyone. You should check with the University before you go however, as students’ classes take priority over activities involving outside visitors.

There are some big changes taking place outside the campus as well. When I moved to the nearby town of Minshiong 民雄 about 3 years ago, the area next to the University had a few dirty looking shops and fried rice stores, and not much else. You could hardly say that now though. The area is going through a huge period of development. Thousands of new apartments have been built, and with that has come business. New convenience stores, hair salons, restaurants and cafes have all been opened. Add in the landscaping work and you have the beginnings of a pleasant and attractive new town, one that should prove worthy of sitting alongside Chung Cheng University.

Jhihben, Taidong

2007-10-05T13:38:00.000-07:00

The small town of Jhihben知本 in Taidong County台東縣 boasts one of the nation’s best known, and most popular hot spring resorts. First developed by Japanese colonial forces more than a century ago, it was designed as a rest and relaxation point for the army’s officers.

Fast-forward one hundred years and, while some things have changed, many have stayed very much the same. Taking a bath in Jhihben’s naturally hot spa water is still the perfect way to relax and unwind, and the beauty of the area’s scenery remains undiminished. The main change of course, is that instead of playing host to officers of an occupying army, the town now welcomes tourists from all over Taiwan, and also a growing number of international visitors.
At just a few minutes drive from Taidong City, Jhihben is ideally located for those holidaying in South East Taiwan. Located in the Jhihben River valley, the resort is surrounded on all sides by wonderfully green and dizzying mountains. Visitors should take heed, and plan to stay for more than just the few hours needed to sample the hot springs themselves.

Perhaps the best way to see what’s on offer is to visit the National Jhihben Forest Recreation Area. I love hiking, and one of the best things about doing it here is the very natural feel the place has. Unlike so many of this country’s hiking areas, the paths in the Forest Park are not covered with concrete. Now that can make walking conditions a little bit more tricky. For those interested in really connecting with their surroundings however, the abilities you have here to walk on real earth and trip up on exposed tree roots, it’s an enlivening experience.

Aside from the old suspension bridge with its wonderful illusion of fragility and danger, the Park’s outstanding feature is its 100-year-old Banyan Tree. Given its age and the way in which Banyans grow, with branches successively spreading out and growing into the ground, this isn’t so much a single tree as it is a great chaotic mass of tree. It’s fantastic, and when animated by a family or two of Formosan macaques, the sprawling madness really comes to life.

The Jhihben area, both inside and outside of the Forest Park, is the home to a diverse range of animal life. Apart from the monkeys, the mountains also contain boar, mongooses, many species of bird and insect life including some large and beautifully winged butterflies, and I was very surprised to see a red crab scuttling across a rock near to the White Jade Waterfall.

That said, Jhihben remains a hot springs resort, and if you’re not an enthusiast then you might want to make it a day trip instead of a weekend visit. The nightlife isn’t wonderful and consists of a few KTV bars where grandparents stand and belt out hits from yesteryear, and shops where you cook eggs in hot spring water. Not that eggs aren’t fun, they surely are, but unless your buddies call you Cool Hand Luke, then there are only so many eggs that you can eat.
Should you love a spa holiday though, and it seems that a good many people do, Jhihben certainly is the perfect destination.

Rueili, Chiayi County

2007-10-05T13:13:00.000-07:00

Rueili

Yuntan and Shuangxi Waterfalls, Swallow Cliff,

and Bat Grotto

Just below the picturesque town of Rueili瑞里 in Chiayi County嘉義縣, lie the Yuntan雲潭 (Cloud Pool) and the Shuangxi雙溪 (Twin River) waterfalls. The beauty of these sights, coupled with the fact that they lie just a few hundred meters walk from the main road, have made them a favorite with tour buses and family visitors alike.

The pathway down to the waterfalls is easy to find, located as it is within a relatively spacious car park and resting area at the side of the road. As you leave the car park, the first waterfall you come to, the Yuntan, is the tallest and also the prettiest of the two. The water here seems to carry a sense of elegance and grandeur. Though I had never witnessed people doing anything like this before, I wasn’t surprised on a previous visit to see people sitting on the rocks and meditating in front of the water. I don’t know if they were contemplating its beauty or drawing on its power, it didn’t seem right to disturb them and ask, but either way it says a lot for the sight’s magnificence.

Yuntan Waterfall

Despite the popularity of Yuntan, only a handful of visitors follow the path down to the Shuangxi waterfall. It’s a shame because, despite their close proximity, the two waterfalls are really very different. Where Yuntan is elegant, and seems to be in perfect harmony with its surroundings, Shuangxi is a stark and jarring feature. The surfaces of the rocks here are flat, the edges, angular and sharp. They appear to attack the water that thunders down on them, almost as if the two elements were locked in a savage struggle that neither could ever win.

Shuangxi Waterfall

The base of this second waterfall is much larger and flatter, and it is littered with the rocks and boulders that have been washed down after centuries of heavy storms. If you’re anything like me, then you’ll be straight off, jumping over the rocks like some great balding monkey. For the less energetic, it’s great to take a rest on the rocks, slip off your shoes, and dip your feet in the lovely cold water. Neither of these activities would be advisable at the Yuntan waterfall where the rocks tend to be slippery, sometimes dangerously so.

The trail continues past Shuangxi and makes use of a succession of suspension bridges that repeatedly cross the river, and give wonderful views of the valley. The walking path eventually leads to the marvelous Swallow Cliff and Bat Grotto. They are another 2km away though, and on a steep pathway, that might prove too big a round-trip for some. A much easier option would be to go back to your car and drive into Rueili, either to the Rueili Hotel or to the elementary school. From both of these places you can join another, shorter, trail that also leads to Swallow Cliff.

This is one of my favorite things about this area. Not only is it blessed with a number of great things to see, but also in the variety of ways that you can get to these places, there is something for everyone, regardless of their level of fitness.

Bat Grotto is a large rock-face riddled with cavities, apparently the result of ages-old river erosion. Bats used to nest in these holes and, though they’re not around anymore, their former presence does add to the sense of eeriness created by the strangely shaped cavities.
About 20 meters down the road you’ll come to Swallow Cliff, no prizes for guessing what nests here. The best thing about this cliff is that you actually walk underneath it as the entire rock-face hangs over the pathway. The experience is slightly unnerving but also well worth it, especially on a rainy day when water runs down the cliff and creates a curtain of water in front of you.

Swallow Cliff

Bat Grotto

For more information about any of these sites you should go to Rueili’s excellent Visitor Center. Apart from being an interesting and imaginatively designed building, the people inside are both helpful and knowledgeable.

Rhinoceros Beetle Farm, Chiayi County

2007-10-05T12:55:00.000-07:00

A great family day out:

Rhinoceros Beetle Farm 獨角仙農場, Jhongpu 中埔

With attractions to suit both young and old alike, Rhinoceros Beetle Farm is the perfect family day out. Located in Jhongpu, Chiayi County, it is a must for those living nearby; and with kindergartens visiting from across the country, its appeal to the younger generation cannot be underestimated.

When a friend of mine introduced me to Rhinoceros Beetle Farm, she described it as a mini Ching Ching Farm 清境農場. It’s easy to see where this comparison comes from. Its main features, like Ching Ching Farm, are its animals and a lush grassy hill. My friend’s description however, doesn’t really do this destination justice.

The sheep at Nantou’s Ching Ching Farm are great, but with goats, ponies, cows, ostriches, rabbits, and a hothouse containing snakes, various insects, and reptiles, Rhinoceros Beetle Farm boasts a much more varied range of animals. It also offers a much greater range of activities, and a more hands on experience. Visitors are able to feed nearly all of the animals, the snakes would be one exception, and this makes for a place where you can really interact with animals instead of just observing them. The goggle-eyed expression of the baby cows, as they suck up the milk you offer them is hard to forget. For younger children, there is also the chance to take a pony ride.

For their older brothers and sisters who might be too old and too cool for a petting zoo, there are a number of other amusements. Aside from the arcade games, paintball, and archery, the grassy field is a great place for some badminton, soccer, or Frisbee. Even granddad and grandma are accommodated with places, both near to the action and separated from it, where they can sit down and relax.

Rhinoceros Beetle Farm boasts a restaurant and a number stalls selling a variety of snacks, you should try the very milky ice cream, it’s delicious. Should you want to cook your own food, there is a large picnic area with tables and chairs where you barbecue and cook hot pot at your leisure.

To get to Rhinoceros Beetle Farm from Chiayi, take the number 18 road and follow it until it meets the number 3, turn left and drive to Jhongpu. From there, just follow the signs and prepare yourself for an enjoyable day out.

Jiji, Nantou

2007-10-05T12:20:00.000-07:00

Jiji; the perfect day out

Take a trip to Jiji and a few things will quickly become apparent; that it is very popular, especially with young couples and young families, that its surrounding scenery is really very beautiful, and that it most likely has the largest concentration of tandem bicycles anywhere in Taiwan, perhaps in the world.

Jiji is the perfect day out, just close enough to be accessible, just far enough away to ensure that it never gets truly overrun. Whether you arrive by road or rail, you’ll be treated to some of Taiwan’s prettiest countryside views, sweeping mountains, tall and jutting hills that seem almost to be growing out of the ground. When seen against a crisp blue sky, you can feel your spirits lift with every passing kilometer.

Travel by train and you’ll experience one of the town’s most enduring attractions. The Jiji line, which runs from Ershuei, takes you right up to Taiwan’s oldest train station. Built in 1933, the Jiji station is by far the most popular, and photographed place in the town. The building itself is simple enough but with its white, wooden walls, it has a quaint charm that cannot be denied. It is this building in the heart of the town that really sets the area’s quiet and intimate tone.
No matter how you arrive, your first point of business should be to rent yourself some transport. Jiji has just about every form of two-wheeled vehicle you care to think of, bicycles, tandems, scooters, miniature motorbikes, and electrically powered bicycles. They’re all here, they’re cheap, convenient, and more than just a means of getting around, they’re part of the overall experience of visiting the town. Indeed, you can’t really say you’ve been to Jiji until you’ve made yourself look like a silly fool, struggling with a tandem, or some other weird looking bike that you normally wouldn’t even dream of riding. The great thing about it is that in this town, you’ll have fun doing it.

So you’ve got your bike, now where to? West of the town center you’ll find the Tianxing Kiln; this is an old fashioned wood-burning kiln and, should you be interested, it has a small museum, exhibitions, and even a classroom where you can try your hand at pottery. Nearby is the Green Tunnel, so called because the trees that line the road grow to meet each other in the middle.
Adjacent to the kiln are a couple of leisure areas. One of them, offering a large selection of snacks and some very pretty, red brick (no doubt products of the kiln) souvenir shops, is very nice. The other one however resembles a beaten up, and broken down traveling carnival. There are a few of these around the town and that’s a very unfortunate thing, they all look seedy, second-rate, and can only tarnish Jiji’s image.

Heading east out of Jiji, you can follow the train track to the Mingxin Academy. Standing right next to the local elementary school, this temple is always busy, as students from around Taiwan come here to pray before taking exams. Even if you don’t want to pray, you’ll be sure to enjoy the temple’s relaxing gardens.

Wu Chang Gong Temple is also to the east of Jiji town center. Leveled by the 921 earthquake, Wu Chang Gong has been left in its partially ruined state, and has now become something of a tourist attraction. It is quite incredible to see the carnage of the building and to imagine the force of the earthquake that brought it down.

Destroyed 8 years ago by the massive 9/21 earthquake, Jiji is a town characterized by its contrasts. A mountain town, it remains remarkably flat; bright and youthful, it also carries a strange air of faded grandeur; it is often busy, yet remains quiet and intimate. Jiji is a small and thriving center in Taiwan’s competitive tourist market, and one of the forces helping it succeed is its legacy of destruction.

Fenchihu, Chiayi County

2007-10-05T11:59:00.000-07:00

Fenchihu

Back in the days when the only way to reach Alishan 阿里山was by rail, Fenchihu 奮起湖was the biggest and most important stop-off station. It was here that the train changed engines, and here where people rested, bought lunch, and relaxed. Following the opening of the Alishan road in 1980 however, the town went into something of a decline. Enticed by the prospect of getting to Alishan under their own steam, people left the railway behind and hit the tarmac in increasing numbers. As Fenchihu lies a few kilometers off the main road it was usually by-passed, and was almost forgotten. Almost, but I guess that in the end you can’t keep a good town down, and over the last few years it has undergone a real renaissance.

The town’s lure lies in the fact that it hasn’t really changed over the years, and increasing numbers of nostalgic people are drawn to its old streets. The main attraction remains the Alishan train. It seems that everyone, no matter how young or old, loves to see that little red locomotive go rolling by. Fenchihu, with its steep hills densely wooded by tall green fir trees, is truly one of the best places to see it. At the train station there is a large garage housing a couple of old steam locomotives. Throwbacks to an older and more simple time, and an interesting sight for anyone in today’s electrically driven world. In keeping with another of Fenchihu’s main attractions, its old shopping street, the train station also features its original ticket booth, a great photo opportunity.

The old shopping street, which was badly damaged in a fire a few years ago, has now been fully restored to its former glory and houses a number of interesting and inviting little shops. Apart from the souvenir stores, check out the old-style Taiwanese clogs and wooden soled sandals, there is also food, lots of it. Fenchihu is blessed with a diverse array of foods, and should have something to suit anyone’s tastes, remember that this was the traditional resting station on the Alishan line. The most famous refreshment must be the Fenchihu railroad rice box. There are also train cakes, a pastry dish with a sweet filling, and Tsa-ah-gwei草阿粿, a large dumpling like food, the outside of which is made from glutinous rice and a type of grass which are pounded up together, the insides are filled with meat and vegetables. This old street has also helped earn Fenchihu the nickname of, “The Jiufen 九份of the South”, after Taipei County’s old gold mining town.

There is another reason for that nickname, and it lies in the fog that often blankets both of these towns. Fenchihu sits in a natural basin where mist collects easily and can get trapped. Locals feel that this basin resembles a “benghi”畚箕, a traditional Taiwanese basket used for carrying dirt, leaves, and trash. When you look down on the town from one of the hiking trails that lead up the mountain, this benghi shape is easy to see. It’s also easy to see why people feel that this hollowed out area looks like a “lake without water”, and this is exactly where another one of Fenchihu’s names, “Benghior”畚箕湖 or Benghi Lake, comes from.

The area’s hiking routes are characterized by its localized climate. The damp, relatively cool conditions give the slopes around the town an almost unique range of lush plant-life that is always enjoyable to explore.

For a place that made its name as a resting station on the way to Alishan, Fenchihu has grown into a picturesque little town with enough attractions to make it, not just a stop-off point, but also a destination in its own right.

Doulishan, Chiayi County

2007-10-05T11:08:00.000-07:00

Doulishan 獨立山, Chiayi County

Chiayi County, home of the Alishan Scenic area, has more than its share of hiking resorts and trails. One of the best of these and, at less than 35 minutes drive from Chiayi City, one of the most convenient is Doulishan. To get there from Chiayi, head along the No.159 and then No.3 roads to Jhuchi town center, from where you will find the route well sign-posted.

Though there is a path leading to the top of Doulishan, most visitors steer clear and head to Fong tian yen temple 奉天岩 instead. Fong tian yen’s popularity, especially at lunch time, is due to the fact that they offer free gas and cooking utensils to anyone who wants them. At weekends the space in front of the temple is packed with families and groups of friends cooking and enjoying their food, a welcome break before they head back down the mountain.

The Alishan railway track is a recurring feature of these hiking trails. Not only does this make for a number of photo opportunities (who wouldn’t want a picture of the Alishan train?), but with stations near both the temple and the car park at the bottom of the route, visitors could take the opportunity of sparing their legs and riding the country’s most endearing form of transport back down the mountain.

While many do wait around to catch a sight, and a photo, of the famous train; most choose to walk both up and down the route. In truth, the path to the temple is not a difficult one, and even the most inexperienced hiker should be able to do it without too many problems.

For those in need of a bigger challenge, the trail does actually continue on upwards past the temple. Slightly steeper and less even, this underused section of the route is more exerting than the comparably leisurely path which leads up to Fong tian yen temple奉天岩. What the trail takes from your legs though, it will more than give back through your eyes.

Due in part, to its higher altitude and also, no doubt, to the fact that it is less often walked, the landscape on this part of your ascent is far richer and more varied. With bamboo giving way to ferns and deciduous trees, there is always something new to look at. Because the pathway is less developed you also get the feeling of walking through the nature, instead of being kept separate from it. Reach the top and you’ll find a tea plantation, some lovely panoramic views, and a guesthouse where you can stay the night. The owners, very friendly people, assured me that sunrise is beautiful.

For a hiking locale that is fit for the novice walker and serious hiker alike, you shouldn’t look too far past Doulishan.

Dinghu, Chiayi County

2007-10-05T10:55:00.000-07:00

Dinghu: A natural gem

From the dark and brooding to the bright and lurid, green in a hundred shades and tones lies in swathes across the Dinghu頂湖 landscape. Trees, ferns, tea plants, bamboo, bushes, there is such a wealth of plant-life here that whether you look up, down, right, or left you cannot escape it. Nature surrounds you at every turn.

Situated about 20 kilometers down the road from Alishan阿里山, Dinghu is usually overlooked in favor of its famous neighbor. Lacking the big attractions like Cherry Blossom, a charming old train, and sunrise viewing platforms, it will never pull in the same number of visitors as Alishan. Strange as it may seem however, these deficiencies are actually Dinghu’s greatest strength.
The very fact that it doesn’t need to cater to huge numbers of tourists, or satisfy those who are not quite at home when out of doors, means that it is left to simply be what it is, one of the best places to immerse yourself in nature. Without the mass crowds, without the hawkers, or regimented and sterile hiking paths, Dinghu has a rawness and a purity to it that you just can’t find in most places.

The hills above Dinghu are laced with a riddle of criss-crossing pathways. Each one has its own individual personality and will show you something slightly different. Not only are there a myriad different species of plants and trees covering the hills, but there are also a number of other features littering the paths. As you walk, every now and then you’ll come across a tiny shrine squeezed underneath or in between rocky outcrops, there are glimpses of mountain views that come through clearings in the foliage, and then perfect beams of sunlight piercing the high bamboo leaves.

It doesn’t matter whether you plan on hiking for five hours or just five minutes, there’s so much nature bursting out around you that, as long as you keep your eyes open to it, you’ll be entranced.

You’ve probably guessed by now that Dinghu doesn’t have a big hotel, restaurants, or a shopping street. Having said that though, the town is not without facilities. Most people who stay here sleep in the camping ground, which is quite large and comes equipped with hot water and showers. The fee for staying there is 200 dollars per person, per night. There are also some rooms you can hire for the night, a small shop, and a place where you can buy simple hot food.
At about 1100 meters above sea level, Dinghu isn’t high enough to ever get really cold, though winter days are often quite chilly. The altitude does help to keep average summer temperatures around a cool 20 degrees. You should expect some heavy rainfall in late summer and fall, so the best time to see the landscape in all its glory is during spring and early summer. Dinghu doesn’t have its own tourist information office but the Alishan office (05 2679917) should be able to give you some more information.

The starting point for a trip to Dinghu is Chiayi City, from there take the No. 18 road to Alishan. A few kilometers after Shijou石棹, watch out for a small sign marking a side road going off on the left. From there it’s just a few kilometers to one of the jewels in the Alishan Scenic Area.

Going to Alishan: A Road less Traveled

2007-10-05T10:22:00.000-07:00

A road less traveled

If you’re heading up to Alishan阿里山 this weekend, and you’re not riding the train, chances are that you’ll be taking the No. 18 road from Chiayi. Indeed, you might not even be aware that you have any alternative. In the No. 159 road however, an alternative does exist.

This route which runs from Chiayi to Shijou石棹 is often overlooked, and not without good reason. It twists and turns to its destination, it is narrow, and in some places is barely big enough for one car, let alone two. It is prone to disrepair, and after nearly every typhoon, parts of its course are either littered with rocks, or have collapsed completely. It is slow, unpredictable, at times infuriating, and occasionally (after one of those big typhoons) it is just the slightest bit dangerous. Why then, would anyone ever choose this route? Well, it all depends on what you’re looking for, and perhaps on how you look for it.

The road is not, and was never meant to be, a handy expressway to Alishan. It’s a road that skirts the mountains and winds its way through remote countryside. That does make it slow, but it also provides for some jaw-dropping views and some intriguing scenery. The lack of speed turns out to be a good thing as it ensures that you are able to see every detail what lies around you.

The unpredictability, and occasional disrepair, of the road is an inevitable part of its mountain setting. Take away those inconveniences, and you would also have to take away the beauty of the virtually sheer cliff drops, and the rock formations that confound the imagination with their shameless peculiarity. The rocks that sometimes lie on the road, and the slight tingle of danger they instill, only add to the overall experience.

Take this road and you’ll also drive through Bantianyan, home to a small but important temple that often hosts large processions and celebrations. The large and ornate temple gates that frame the road and the tall golden statue of Guanyin should be more than enough to make you stop here and take a look around.

As you continue up the road you’ll pass tiny mountain villages, and through woods of bamboo, beetle nut, and pine trees. You’ll see waterfalls, cliffs, sumptuous valleys, and quiet little spots by the side of the road that are just perfect to lunch at. When you’re out of your car, you can hear the clear sound of gushing rivers from the valley floors far beneath you. To get the most from all this, and to enjoy the cool fresh air, you should really ride a motorbike.

Let’s be honest though, some of you will never drive this road on either a bike or in a car, and some of you never should. In the end it really comes down to what you want from your weekend, and perhaps ultimately, what you want from life; whether you’re simply interested in getting to your destination as quickly and conveniently as possible, or whether you feel that the journey is just as important as the destination. If you’re prepared to go the extra mile and take the trouble for a more complete experience then take a ride on the 159, a road increasingly less traveled.

Taroko Gorge, Hualien

2007-10-05T05:58:00.000-07:00

Rock, you rock

Taroko Gorge

If you haven’t been to Taroko Gorge, you should go. If you have been, go again. Its marble cliffs, some of which stand over 300 meters high, are stunningly beautiful. They are majestic, breath-taking, awesome; I could write adjectives all-day and still not do them justice. Photos might help to give you an idea of what I’m writing about. Really though, the only thing for it is to go and see them and, wherever possible, to see them up close.

If, like most people, you approach Taroko Gorge from Hualien you’ll find many places to stop, get out of your car, and look around while on the road to Tienshiang, the largest village in the gorge. Two of the more impressive and more interesting sites would have to be Swallow’s Grotto, and the Tunnel of Nine Turns. At Swallow’s Grotto, named after the little birds that used to nest there, you’ll see gnarled and curving orange and white marble cliffs that are amongst the tallest in the area. The Tunnel of Nine Turns is even more imposing. From this twisting cave, hewn out of the rock, the magnitude of Taroko Gorge is unmistakable. Nowhere else do the opposing marble cliffs come so close together, nowhere else do they seem to soar as high. Looking up and down at these close walls of patterned stone, feeling the heavy weight of rock looming over your head, the effect is dizzying, and it truly takes your breath away. Walking through this tunnel however, one should silently remember those who paid the ultimate price for its construction. Many of the estimated 450 people who died making the Cross-Island Highway, which runs through the Gorge, met their end here.

Swallow Grotto

Tunnel of Nine Turns

As stunning as the Tunnel of Nine Turns and Swallow’s Grotto are though, neither would rank as my favorite place in Taroko. Just before Tienshiang, directly before the road bridge which leads into that village, is a short pathway which will take you right down to the river’s edge. This lowly and seldom visited spot is the best place to experience that for which the gorge is famous, marble. While you may be surrounded by the stuff from the moment you enter the park, down here it’s a little bit different. You walk in amongst, or even climb on and over the rocks and boulders, some of them as big as a house, that have been washed downstream from all different parts of the chasm. Given their various origins, these marbles come in a beautiful variety of colors and patterns which range from orange and brown, to blue-green and purple, to snow white.

The other great thing about this site is that it doesn’t stay the same. Due to its position next to the river, rocks, tree trunks, and branches, get washed in and out after every heavy rainfall.

Visiting the area last weekend, I was fascinated to see what had changed from my previous visit. The tourist information centers in both Hualien and Tienshiang will be able to provide you with more leaflets detailing the area. The center in Hualien is especially good and has English speaking assistants. No doubt both centers would point out that the area is rich not only in marble deposits, but also in a wide range of both plant and animal wildlife. They would also direct you to the area’s other tourist locations. The temple and pagoda in Tienshiang are well worth a visit. Even if you’re not religiously minded, the views from the top of the pagoda are excellent. The beautifully situated Eternal Spring Shrine is another interesting site. Built to commemorate those workers who died constructing the Cross-Island Highway, this picturesque Zen temple is well worth a visit.

Tienshiang

Eternal Spring Shrine

If you’re still not sure why Taroko Gorge is one of Taiwan’s most popular tourist destinations, then its time you went there and found out for yourself.